Enjoys medium to bright indirect light.

Be sure to water when you receive them. Allow soil to dry between watering.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant in rooms where the temperature is a comfortable 60°F-75°F and avoid cold drafts or air vents below 55°F. They thrive in warmer and humid temperatures with plenty of humidity.

Outside: Keep in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F.

When receiving the Baby Rubber Plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a planter could cause the soil to dry slower.)

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your Rubber Tree plant, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. When pruning, use clean, sharp pruners. Cut above a node or where the leaves emerge on the side of the stem. Branching will occur and encourage a bushier and fuller plant. Use these cuttings to propagate. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed.

To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the Rubber Tree plant in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your plant in the decorative container.

To propagate this plant during the growing season:

Take a 4-6 inch stem cutting in the early spring.

Use a knife or sharp pruners, cut below a node where there are at least three leaves.

Remove the bottom leaves to expose the node.

Place the stem in a glass jar and fill it with filtered water and watch the roots grow! Replace and freshen the water each week.

After the roots are six weeks old, add the cuttings to moistened potting soil, continue to water, and give them bright, indirect lighting.

To propagate this plant by division during the growing season:

Water your plant the night before dividing.

Inspect your plant for overcrowding. If they are root-bound in the pot, loosen the dirt around the root clump and brush away the soil.

Begin to tease and pull apart the mass of roots.

Divide each clump into their pot, measuring 2 inches wider than the root mass and deep enough for their roots to grow.

Plant in well-draining potting mix amended with rooting hormone. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. Water the soil and add more if settling occurs. Set them in medium, indirect sunlight.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to develop. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.

Keep the air humid around them with a pebble tray and misting.

Some die off of stems may occur from transplant shock. If this happens, cut the branches away and continue to hydrate, and keep the humidity level at a medium level while they recover. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Let the soil dry between waterings.

No extra humidity required.

Keep this plant consistently in warm temperatures inside with nighttime temperatures decreasing to only 60°F-70°F.

Outside: Grow in dappled shade in morning sun where nights are above 50°F.

Indoors: The Chinese Money Plant enjoys medium to bright, indirect light.

Water the Chinese Money Plant one day prior to fertilizing. Fertilize once a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer by half strength. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or a cacti and succulent mix. 

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. 

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. 

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. 

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give it a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can.

In early spring, take a pilea cutting, use a sharp knife to cut off pinkish red baby offshoots from the main stem.  Remove at least an inch of stalk under the soil leading to the main stem. Be careful not to catch the knife of the healthy leaves on the mother plant. 

If there is no root ball, remove all the soil and place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled or tap water that has been sitting at least 24 hours. 

If there is a root ball, then separate the mother plant from the babies and pot up. Follow the instructions below.*

After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has well formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. 

*Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it difficult to regulate watering needs) using indoor well-draining potting mix such as cacti and succulent mix. 

Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around it. 

Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should be established.

Enjoys medium to bright indirect sunlight indoors or in full shade, frost-free outdoor areas.

Keep consistently moist but can be forgiving if neglected at times.

These plants enjoy high levels of humidity indoors and outside.

Keep this plant on the warmer side and avoid cold drafts.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F

Apply at half-strength a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants every month.

When receiving the Lemon Button Fern, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. They prefer to be a little crowded in their pot.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add well-draining potting soil amended with peat moss and perlite to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, and unlike their cousins, they like to have a bit drier soil conditions. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your fern, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. Cut the stem all the way back to the base. To revitalize them, cut all the old foliage down to the crown and avoid cutting off any rolled fiddleheads that are popping up. This will eventually produce new foliage for the year and keep your plant healthy.

Propagate and divide your Lemon Button Fern in the spring.

Hydrate the plant the night before.

Pull from the container and carefully divide or cut through the clump with a sterilized knife. Repot the fern in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil mix amended with a rooting hormone. Be aware that each new plant needs several leaves with sufficient roots attached.

Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for their roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom.

Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.

Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Place a large, clear plastic bag, spritz with water on the interior and place over the new plant to create a humid environment. This particular fern does better with dryer soil conditions. Water weekly and keep on a consistent schedule.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the humidity high while the roots establish.

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Remove the plastic bag but keep the air humid around them with a pebble tray and misting.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Don't overwater. Too much water can cause root or crown rot.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Bromeliads grow best when temperatures are between 60°-80°F.

Outside: Grow in partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.

Indoors: The Bromeliad prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize monthly during their growing period while the flower is in bloom with a balanced liquid fertilizer and a time release granular soil fertilizer. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase. When fertilizing, don't get the fertilizer in the urn or tank as this can burn the plant.

To repot a bromeliad grown out of their container, get a larger one that's 2 inches wider with drainage holes. Make sure the container is sturdy enough if the bromeliad is top-heavy.

Use a mixture of 1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Fill the container's bottom with the mix, then place the bromeliad in and fill around the edges. Leave at least an inch of room from the top of the container to avoid water spillage.

Water the plant well. Add them to an area with bright, indirect sunlight and humidity to let them settle into their new environment.

Remove the dead or dying part with some pruners back to the base. This simple pruning will give more light to the remaining pups with more room to stretch and make new baby bromeliads.

To propagate the bromeliad pups, let the pups grow on the mother plant until they reach at least 5 inches or a third of the original stalk's size. Take the mother plant out of the pot. Cut the mother plant top off to see the pup and remove all the dead leaves. Pull away the pup and the small root system with them. You may need to use pruners to help remove the roots and pup. Some arm strength may be required to wedge them away from the parent plant. Once you have them separated, you can use a bromeliad medium (1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark) to repot them in. Use a container with drainage holes and nothing too big for the pup. Allow at least 2 inches of soil to surround the pup. You will bury the roots very shallow in the soil so as not to cause rotting on the leaves. Tamp the mix down to secure the plant. Water from overhead to give them a drink and water well so it drains through the hole. Set in a bright, indirect sunny area.