If you need a plant for every room, this collection hand-selected by Mullen Design Co. has your name on it.
Every plant in this collection will enhance the look and feel of your space. It is an easy-care collection that will be easy for you to maintain. It includes:
Care Level: Plays Hard to Get
Pet Friendly: Warning
Toxic to pets if ingested.
Fun Facts: Fibers from snake...
Fibers from snake plants are used to make bowstrings, hence once of their common names: Viper's Bowstring - According to NASA, Snake plants remove 4 of the 5 main toxins associated with getting sick - When propagating, it is best to not use cuttings but to rather divide the rhizome so you can keep all the variegations.
Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.
Enjoys being on the moist, but not soggy side.
Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.
Avoid cold drafts under 50°F and no hotter than 95°F during the day.
Outside: Grow in early morning sun (2-4 hours) where nights are above 50°F.
Indoors: The Fiddle Leaf Fig prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
Fertilize once a month during the growing spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer or topical granular soil fertilizer. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Note: If your Fiddle Leaf Fig has outgrown their space inside, cut back the roots by 20% to stunt their growth and add new potting soil to the existing container.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Gently wipe clean with a soft, damp cloth or paper towel. Work gently from the stem's base toward the leaf's tip, cleaning both sides at once. After cleaning the leaves, remove any dead leaves or debris on the surface of the soil.
Refreshen the soil mixture if needed.
Prune away damaged or diseased leaves down to the stem base with sterile scissors. To prune the Fiddle Leaf Fig, cut between two nodes (where the leaves emerge from the stem). Here the plant will stimulate new growth and branch into two stems, and form young leaves making the fig bushier. Use the pruned stems for propagation.
Take a cutting between two nodes (where the leaves emerge from the stem) with several leaves on the cutting.
Cut the leaves in half in order.
Place the cuttings in a clean glass jar filled with filtered or bottled water and place in a bright, indirect light spot. Change the water each week. After several weeks, white spots will begin to appear on the stem and after approximately 6-8 weeks, roots will emerge.
Use a pot with drainage. and place the roots and stem in damp, well-draining, moist potting soil mix and tamp down around the stem to secure.
Place the stem at least 1-2 inches down into the soil. Set them in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are secure.
Best in medium light, but can survive in a range of low to high.
Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Prefers humidity. Spritz occasionally.
Keep this plant out of cold drafts near open windows or doors.
Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn.
Apply a fertilizer high in phosphorus for root development. As the leaves multiply and the plant matures, switch to a formula high in nitrogen. Apply the nutrients monthly while watering. Refrain from fertilizing during the winter to let the plant rest.
When receiving the Burgundy Rubber plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.)
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour.
Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Water well to dampen the soil and let it drain.
Gently wipe clean with a soft, damp cloth or paper towel. Work gently from the stem's base toward the leaf's tip, cleaning both sides at once. After cleaning the leaves, remove any dead leaves or debris on the surface of the soil.
Refresh the soil mixture if needed.
Wear gloves to prevent skin irritation before pruning away damaged or diseased leaves. Cut down to the stem base with sterile scissors.
To shape your plant, cut above where the leaf attaches to the stem. Here the plant will stimulate new growth and branch into two stems, and form young leaves making the rubber plant bushier.
When giving them a shapely look, only remove one-third of the plant's branches. At this point, they may look a little barren but will fill in during the growing season.
Use the pruned stems for propagation.
Take a cutting between two nodes (where the leaves emerge from the stem) with several leaves on the cutting.
Remove the bottom set of leaves.
Dip the cuttings in a rooting hormone.
Use a pot with drainage. and place the stem in damp, well-draining, moist potting soil mix and tamp down around the stem securing it.
Place the stem at least 1-2 inches down into the soil. Place a clear plastic bag over the cutting to mimic a greenhouse and mist the bag.
Set them in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are secure.
Best in medium light, but can survive in a range of low to high.
Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Prefers low humidity.
Inside: Very hardy.
Outside: Keep in dappled shade (early morning sun) to full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F.
Fertilize sparingly in the spring and summer apply at half-strength a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants and let the rest of the year.
When receiving the Snake plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. They like to be a bit root-bound. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a succulent soilless potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain.
Use a well-draining cacti and succulent potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.
Add cacti and succulent soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the roots. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.
To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give them a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can.
Trim off discolored spots with a sterile knife. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time.
Cut a leaf off at the base and place them in a container tall enough to hold the leaf upright. Add about an inch of water at the bottom and change the water weekly. Keep the leaf in medium indirect sunlight while they are beginning to form roots. Once roots are at least 1-2 inches long, plant them with rooting hormone mixed into the well-draining succulent and cacti mix. Water and place in bright to medium, indirect light. Use a wooden dowel to train them to stand upright until the roots are more anchored and secure.
Place your Ming Aralia, where she'll get the brightest indirect light near your home's east, west, or south windows.
Keep your Ming evenly moist and use our plant thermometer to monitor her moisture needs.
Your Ming is used to the hot, humid tropics so keep her near other plants, on a plant tray and a humidifier to keep her happy.
Mings are used to tropical temperatures. If she experiences cold drafts or exposure to temps below 60°F, it will shed her foliage.
When in their native habitat, she will show off white to pale yellow blooms with five petals during spring and summer but don't expect any flowering indoors.
Fertilize with our Arbor plant food once a month during the growing season between March and October. To provide adequate drainage, your Ming likes soil mixes with pine bark, coir, perlite, or vermiculite. Keep her soil slightly acidic in the 6.0-6.5 range.
When receiving the Ming Aralia, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. (They like to be a bit rootbound anyway!)
Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a container could cause the soil to dry slower, eventually leading to root rot.)
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring and let it sit for an hour.
Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen it.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim them off with sterile pruners. Cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling if the plant is rootbound.
Ensure the plant sits about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Let the soil drain thoroughly before placing it in a cachepot.
Ming Aralia shrubs grow slowly, so there's not a lot of pruning to do. When pruning your Ming Aralia, do it during cold months when she's in dormancy. To thicken the density of leaves, trim the tips to encourage branching. If a branch looks out of place, prune it to control its upright habit. Conquering Aralias pruning can produce a beautiful and elegant plant shape. Also, clean the soil of any foliage debris and trim off any dead, damaged, or diseased limbs periodically.
In the fall season, hydrate the plant the night before taking cuttings. Take a young stem cutting between 4-6 inches long with several leaves attached from the top of the shrub. Cut 1/4 inch below one of the sets of leaves.
Remove the lower leaves to expose the nodes (the spot where the leaves were attached)
Dip the end of the cuttings in water, then in a rooting hormone.
Use a pot with drainage and place the stem 1 inch down into the well-draining, moist potting soil mixed with coconut coir, perlite, and coarse sand. Tamp down around the stem securing it.
Place a clear plastic bag over the cutting to mimic a greenhouse and mist the bag. Set it in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.
Check the moisture and humidity daily and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots are established.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug on the stem to ensure the roots are secure. Cut a slit in the plastic bag and keep the plant's soil damp until rooting has developed. This will help acclimate the plant to normal humidity levels.
Once the roots are secure, transplant them to their new home, place them in bright, indirect sunlight, and water them each week, providing the necessary temperatures and humidity.
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