Give this plant bright, indirect light in a southern-facing window or a combination of exposures. The brighter the light, the more increased waviness of the leaves.

Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace them into the cache or decorative pot. Don't let the roots sit in standing water. Keep the soil consistently moist and well-drained. When watering, avoid the frond rosette to prevent rotting. Keep the leaves dry to avoid fungal and bacterial infections.

Enjoys medium to high humidity. Add a pebble tray or humidifier to keep the humidity around them high but don't spritz the leaves as that can cause fungal and bacterial infections. Keep the leaves dry.

This plant likes warmer temperatures. Keep it out of cold drafts.

Outside: Keep them in shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 65°F.

Fertilize every two weeks during the growing season (spring and summer) by diluting a liquid fertilizer by half strength. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter. Note: If the leaves lose the wavy edges, your plant may be getting too much fertilizer. If so, fertilize once a month.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite with an equal mix of charcoal to help with drainage and hold plant nutrients.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Misting the leaves daily will keep the leaves on this plant clean. Remove any debris from the soil surface and replenish if needed. Trimi any damaged or browning tips and avoid letting water or debris fall into the rosette.

Birds nest fern is very tough to propagate for the average gardener.

If you adventurous and a bit curious, try reproducing your own bird's nest fern by harvesting its spores. The spores are the small rows of brownish, fuzzy spots along the bottom of the leaves. When these spores look fat and fuzzy, trim off the leaf they're on by cutting it down to the bottom of the stem. Delicately set them into a paper plate. Over the next few days, the spores should fall onto the paper plate as they dry.

Afterward, gather several containers of sphagnum moss. Spread the spores over the top surface, and keep them uncovered. Put your pots of moss and spores in a dish of water to bottom soak through the moss. Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to create a mini "greenhouse" to keep humidity high, or hand-mist the top daily. Keep the temperatures between 70-80 degrees in bright, indirect light.

Germination starts in approximately 2-3 weeks if the humidity is kept high. Once the sprouts have grown, remove the plastic cover. Provide high humidity around the leaves as they grow by using a pebble tray and humidifier.

Enjoys a lot of bright light but not direct sunlight.

Enjoys being kept on the dry side. Water well and then let the soil dry.

Enjoys a little extra humidity. Spritz occasionally.

The China Doll can be finicky if conditions change slightly. They will drop their leaves in protest if water conditions change or experience any movement or drafts. A repotting can trigger a leaf shedding too. If this occurs, prune back the barren branch to regain growth. They will benefit from a consistent temperature range at all times.

Outdoors: part shade in the dappled morning sun (4-6 hrs.) where nights are above 60°F.

Indoors: place in bright indirect sun. When moving this plant from indoors to outside and back, expect leaf shedding as they change environments.

Water the plant before fertilizing to avoid fertilizer burn. Fertilize once a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer into the water while watering. Use half the recommended strength. Fertilize in the spring and summer months but let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. They like to be a bit root-bound. (They don't like much change, so let them get acclimated to the area they will be located in.)

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.)

A heavy container will help counterbalance the top-growth of the China Doll.

Prune away dead, damaged, or diseased leaves down to the stem base with sterile pruners.

To trim and stimulate new growth, cut a half-inch to one inch above a leaf. Cutting too much may put them into shock, so do a little at a time.

For more lushness, trim branches that face inward so they will branch and fill in open areas. Cut back rogue branches or any inner branches that are too bushy.

Observe the soil closely after a significant trim because the lack of foliage can follow lighter water use.

Take green stem cuttings from the tips of the parent plant. Cut with sterile scissors taking a 3-6 inch cutting.

Dip in rooting hormone and place them in moist potting soil. Cover with a clear plastic bag to retain moisture and humidity while they root.

Keep the cuttings in bright, indirect light.

Best in medium light, but can survive in a range of low to high.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Doesn't prefer humidity, but they can tolerate it.

Keep on the warmer side to keep them growing healthy.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, to medium indirect light but can tolerate low light conditions.

Sansevierias don't need a lot of fertilizer so fertilize only twice a year in the early spring and mid-summer. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer.

When receiving the Snake plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. They like to be a bit root-bound. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a succulent soilless potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain.

Use a well-draining cacti and succulent potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add cacti and succulent soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the roots. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

Using a sharp knife, trim off any dead or damaged leaves from the area closest to the soil. If a leaf is damaged, cut off the browning or damaged part at any point on the leaf. Remove any dust with a damp cloth wiping gently up both sides of each leaf, supporting them with the other hand. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

Cut a leaf off at the base and place them in a container tall enough to hold the leaf upright. Add about an inch of water at the bottom and change the water weekly. Keep the leaf in medium indirect sunlight while they are beginning to form roots. Once roots are at least 1-2 inches long, plant them with rooting hormone mixed into the well-draining succulent and cacti mix. Water and place in bright to medium, indirect light. Use a wooden dowel to train them to stand upright until the roots are more anchored and secure.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Let the soil dry between waterings.

No extra humidity required.

Keep this plant consistently in warm temperatures inside with nighttime temperatures decreasing to only 60°F-70°F.

Outside: Grow in dappled shade in morning sun where nights are above 50°F.

Indoors: The Chinese Money Plant enjoys medium to bright, indirect light.

Water the Chinese Money Plant one day prior to fertilizing. Fertilize once a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer by half strength. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or a cacti and succulent mix. 

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. 

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. 

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. 

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give it a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can.

In early spring, take a pilea cutting, use a sharp knife to cut off pinkish red baby offshoots from the main stem.  Remove at least an inch of stalk under the soil leading to the main stem. Be careful not to catch the knife of the healthy leaves on the mother plant. 

If there is no root ball, remove all the soil and place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled or tap water that has been sitting at least 24 hours. 

If there is a root ball, then separate the mother plant from the babies and pot up. Follow the instructions below.*

After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has well formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. 

*Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it difficult to regulate watering needs) using indoor well-draining potting mix such as cacti and succulent mix. 

Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around it. 

Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should be established.