Place your plant where it will get full sunlight for 6-8 hours. The more sun this plant gets, the more fruit it will bear.

Water this plant consistently giving it 1 inch of rainfall per week or five gallons in a 3 x 3 foot area. Allow enough water to penetrate down two feet deep to reach its roots. Follow our directions on watering here.

A medium humidity level where there is good air circulation is optimum for this plant.

This plant will flower in June and fruit mid-season.

Fertilize in the spring when leaves begin to pop out, and all danger of frost has passed. Sprinkle Jon and Bob's organic fertilizer around the dripline to promote good soil health and add microorganisms to the soil. A light layer of compost is also good to add but do not push up against the main trunk.

Prune your new grape plant as soon as you get it. Reduce the numerous shoots coming out of the root system to one. Trim the one down to the third bud from the bottom. New green shoots will appear once the vine begins to sprout and grow. Once they're a foot long, choose the heartiest one and tie it to a stake at the top and bottom. Then remove the other shoots. As the lone shoot grows throughout the summer, continue to stake it to keep it upright and straight. Winds can break it, so anchor it with ties. This one stem will be the permanent trunk of your beloved grapevine. Build a trellis wire for the trunk to reach about 30 inches. The trunk should reach this height in the first year. (If not, cut it back to the three buds and start over. )The trunk will need to be very sturdy.
Cut it at the first bud above the wire when the shoot grows a few inches taller than the wire. Next, tie the shoot to the stake and wire. Very hardy shoots may develop beyond the wire and set robust side laterals. Choose the two laterals closest to the wire, tie them to the wire, then prune to 3-5 buds. Remove the rest of the lateral stems.
Condition the new shoots up to the next wire during the season, and remove any new sprout from the roots or lower trunk.
Each year you will select new canes at the trunk and wire juncture. Tie one or two canes to each side of the wire with 8-10 buds per cane. Then cut all the other canes out but two. (Read below.) In doing this, you will have a healthier vine and more robust fruiting. When selecting the canes to save, choose the diameter about the size of your pinky finger making sure the buds are close together. Be sure to leave one or two spur canes, trimming them to two buds each to provide canes for next year's pruning.
 

Wait until your grape plant goes dormant over the winter. Then cut from the end of a vine leaving two nodes from the end of the stem that is connecting on the main trunk. Cut 1/4 inch right above the second node.
Prepare your pots with unused container soil mixed with compost, worm castings, and coconut coir. Use clean quart-size containers with a deep pot (at least 8 inches) to allow the roots to have room to grow and fill with your soil mix to an inch below the rim.
Trim your cuttings to 12 inches each with sterile pruners.
Next, peel (about an inch long) the tender bark with the blade of your pruner on the bottom end you will place into the soil. (Be careful not to get your ends mixed up!) You should see green bark as you peel, indicating it's alive and healthy.
Dip the end in root hormone, press down into the pot about six inches, and press the soil around it to keep it secure.
Then water well until water escapes from the drainage holes.
Place the pots in a greenhouse where it will get continued bright light to full sun and keep consistently watered. Within two months, you should see leaves forming. If the roots look healthy, it is time to plant them. Use a drip irrigation system to keep them consistently moist.