Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Enjoys being on the moist, but not soggy side.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

The Swiss Cheese Plant likes warmth and to stay above 50°F with high humidity.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 50°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, to medium indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize during their growing period in the spring and summer months between February and October every 2-3 weeks. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Reduce fertilizing during the fall and winter to once a month while the plant is in their dormant phase. Raise the humidity around them and never use chlorine or fluoride in the water.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Wear gloves while working with this plant, as they have a sap that causes skin irritation. Trim off any yellowing bottom leaves down to the base of the stem using a sharp knife. Remove any debris off the soil surface. Train your plant to grow up a moss pole and tie them up to promote upward growth. Wipe the leaves with a clean, damp cloth using filtered or rain water. Support the leaf by wiping them from the stem to the tip of the leaf on both sides. Spritzing the leaves is another way to wet them and wipe them clean.

Take cuttings just below an aerial root.

Remove the bottom leaves on the stem with sterile scissors or a knife. Place the cutting in a container tall enough to hold the leaf upright. Add about an inch of water at the bottom and change the water weekly.

Keep the leaf in medium indirect sunlight while they are beginning to form roots.

Once roots are at least 1-2 inches long, plant them with rooting hormone mixed into the well-draining potting mix.

Water and place in bright to medium, indirect light.

Best in medium light, but can survive in a range of low to high.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Doesn't prefer humidity, but they can tolerate it.

Keep on the warmer side to keep them growing healthy.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, to medium indirect light but can tolerate low light conditions.

Sansevierias don't need a lot of fertilizer so fertilize only twice a year in the early spring and mid-summer. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer.

When receiving the Snake plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. They like to be a bit root-bound. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a succulent soilless potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain.

Use a well-draining cacti and succulent potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add cacti and succulent soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the roots. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

Using a sharp knife, trim off any dead or damaged leaves from the area closest to the soil. If a leaf is damaged, cut off the browning or damaged part at any point on the leaf. Remove any dust with a damp cloth wiping gently up both sides of each leaf, supporting them with the other hand. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

Cut a leaf off at the base and place them in a container tall enough to hold the leaf upright. Add about an inch of water at the bottom and change the water weekly. Keep the leaf in medium indirect sunlight while they are beginning to form roots. Once roots are at least 1-2 inches long, plant them with rooting hormone mixed into the well-draining succulent and cacti mix. Water and place in bright to medium, indirect light. Use a wooden dowel to train them to stand upright until the roots are more anchored and secure.