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While on their embarking conquests, the Spanish over-harvested the Dracaena tree for their medicinal assets until they became a protected species.
The most magnificent specimen in the world exists in northwest Tenerife at Icod de los Vinos, Spain. Their age is estimated to be between 600-800 years old with a 32-foot diameter trunk base. A botanical garden was established nearby to protect them from pollution and vandalism.
Care Level: I'm Easy
Pet Friendly: Warning
Toxic to pets if ingested.
Origins: Native to tropical and humid regions of Africa in Upper Guinea. The plant is frequently surrounded by vegetation and in a shaded area.
Fun Facts: In Europe, back i...
In Europe, back in the 1700s the Dracaena Massangeana made their mark as an indoor plant, along with the Kentia palm, cast-iron plants (Aspidistra) and what we know as the “Boston fern”. During the early 1900s, Dracaena Massangeana fragrans made their way onto the plant scene in the United States.
Medium to bright indirect light.
Be sure to water when you receive them. Enjoys being kept on the moist side but not soggy.
Requires high humidity
Keep this plant in rooms where the temperature is a comfortable 60°F-75°F and avoid cold drafts or air vents below 55°F.
Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F.
Fertilize three times a year in the spring, summer and fall. Apply at half-strength a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants during the growing season and let them rest in the winter.
When receiving the Dracaena, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a planter could cause the soil to dry slower.)
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour.
Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, loosen the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Water well to dampen the soil and let them drain.
To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give them a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can.
Trim off any brown leaf tips that may appear with sterile scissors. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time.
Take a stem cutting between 4-6 inches long with leaves attached with sanitized pruners.
Dip the cuttings in water, then in a rooting hormone.
Use a pot with drainage and place the stem 1-2 inches down into the damp, well-draining, moist potting soil mix and tamp down around the stem securing them.
Place a clear plastic bag over the cutting to mimic a greenhouse and mist the bag. Set them in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are secure.
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