Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Let the soil dry between waterings.

No extra humidity required.

Keep this plant consistently in warm temperatures inside with nighttime temperatures decreasing to only 60°F-70°F.

Outside: Grow in dappled shade in morning sun where nights are above 50°F.

Indoors: The Chinese Money Plant enjoys medium to bright, indirect light.

Water the Chinese Money Plant one day prior to fertilizing. Fertilize once a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer by half strength. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or a cacti and succulent mix. 

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. 

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. 

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. 

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give it a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can.

In early spring, take a pilea cutting, use a sharp knife to cut off pinkish red baby offshoots from the main stem.  Remove at least an inch of stalk under the soil leading to the main stem. Be careful not to catch the knife of the healthy leaves on the mother plant. 

If there is no root ball, remove all the soil and place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled or tap water that has been sitting at least 24 hours. 

If there is a root ball, then separate the mother plant from the babies and pot up. Follow the instructions below.*

After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has well formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. 

*Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it difficult to regulate watering needs) using indoor well-draining potting mix such as cacti and succulent mix. 

Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around it. 

Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should be established.

Best in medium light, but can survive in a range of low to high.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Prefers humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant out of cold drafts near open windows or doors.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn.

Peace lilies are not heavy feeders therefore, every six weeks is sufficient for their nutrient needs. Add a balanced liquid fertilizer to your water and dilute it by half. Fertilize throughout the late winter, early spring and summer months. Note: If your peace lily is not blooming, move them to a brighter area in the house to get indirect sun.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2"" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1"" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Each time a flower blooms on the peace lily and turns brown, cut the stem off at the base. Prune off any yellowing leaves at the base of the stem. Clean any debris off the soil's surface. To clean, place the plant into a tub or shower. Use a watering can with a shower attachment using distilled, filtered, or water without chlorine or chemicals. Pour the water over the plant to wash away any dust. Do this each quarter to keep your plant's leaves clean.

Propagate and divide your Peace Lily plant in the early spring.

Hydrate the plant the night before.

Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully around the roots. Carefully divide and repot in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil mix, being aware that each new plant needs at least two or more leaves with sufficient roots attached.

Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for their roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom.

Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.

Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.

This plant enjoys bright to medium indirect light.

Keep the soil slightly moist and water when the soil reaches a #5 on the moisture meter. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough to discharge out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace it into the cache or decorative pot. Don't let the roots sit in standing water. During winter months, water less frequently but keep it humid around the plant.

Add up to 60% humidity by adding a pebble tray filled with water, grouping with other plants or using a humidifier.

Avoid any sudden temperature changes. Keep humidity high in warmer temperatures.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F. Indoors: The Rattlesnake Plant prefers bright to medium, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize monthly during its growing period. Use a high nitrogen liquid fertilizer at half strength to increase foliage health. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in its dormant phase. Flush the soil periodically to eliminate salts from fertilizing.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot in the spring, using a 2" wider pot. (Too large of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or an african violet potting mix. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil. Enclose the new plantings in plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as it acclimates to its new environment. It may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as it regains its energy and gets rooted into the soil over time.

Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

Indoors: Propagate and divide Zebra plants in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully. Carefully divide and repot in African violet mix. Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Set it in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Enclose the new plantings in clear plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as it acclimates to its new environment. It may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as it regains its energy and gets rooted into the soil over time. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. You can remove the clear plastic bag at this time but still maintain high humidity around the plant. Outdoors: Carefully loosen the soil and dig the roots up and separate the plant in new locations in your garden. Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a part-shade morning sun location. Water with filtered or rain water at soil level.

This plant prefers low to medium light.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

This plant doesn't require any extra humidity.

Avoid fluctuations in temperature keeping them away from drafts.

Outside: Grow in filtered morning light where nights are above 50°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, to medium indirect light but can tolerate low light conditions.

ZZ plants grow slowly. Therefore, they don't need a lot of fertilizer. Apply a balanced fertilizer in the early spring and summer at half strength.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-8 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the rhizomes that mimic potatoes. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the rhizomes. Notice if there are any dead or rot and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, separate the roots and rhizomes if you wish to make more plants. If not, remove any weak leaves off the plant to help revitalize their energy.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

When yellowing leaves occur throughout the season on mature plants, remove them. If stems become too arched or heavy, prune back as needed. To clean, shower them with filtered water or non-fluoridated water.

Indoors: Propagate and divide ZZ plants in the early spring when emerging from dormancy.

Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully around the rhizomes. Carefully divide and repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix.

Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to have room to grow.

Set in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.

Outdoors:

Carefully loosen the soil and dig the roots up and separate the plant in new locations in your garden.

Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a filtered morning sun location.

Water with filtered or rain water at the soil level.

This plant loves low to medium indirect light.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Pothos love high levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Pothos grows their best when temperatures are between 70°-90°F.

Outside: Grow in full sun (6-8 hours) to partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.

Indoors: The Golden Pothos prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize every two to three months during their growing period in the spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer or topical granular soil fertilizer. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball.

Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles: Shower them from above. Fill a watering-can with filtered, distilled, or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours and is free of chemicals (chlorine or fluoride). Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can. Trim off any yellow leaves with sterile scissors. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time. Prune the vines up to 2 inches from the soil line to create lushness at the top. As they spills over the rim of the container, trim to maintain their shape and size at your preference. Remove any dried or discolored leaves to keep the plant vigorous.

Stem Cutting: In early spring, take a pothos cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine. Cut at least 5-6 inches of stem to propagate. Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours.

After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. *Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix. Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around them. Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.

Division: Divide the Golden Pothos in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and cut through the roots with a sharp knife or pruners. Repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix. Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Place the roots at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom if necessary. Set them in bright, indirect sunlight and water. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to form. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are establishing.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Water thoroughly, but allow them to dry slightly between waterings.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Flamingo Flower likes it on average of 68° at night and upwards of 86°F during daylight hours.

Outside: Grow in early morning sun (2-4 hours) where nights are above 60°F.

Indoors: The Flamingo Flower prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize once a month during the growing spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer or topical granular soil fertilizer. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

Leach salt residue buildup away by flushing the potted plant each month. Let the water run out the drain holes.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let  sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Gently wipe clean with a soft, damp cloth or paper towel. Work gently from the stem's base toward the leaf's tip, cleaning both sides at once. After cleaning the leaves, remove any dead leaves or debris on the surface of the soil.

Refreshen the soil mixture if needed.

Prune away damaged or diseased leaves or flowers down to the stem base with sterile scissors.

Indoors: Propagate and divide Flamingo Flowers in the early spring when emerging from dormancy.

Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully. Carefully divide and keep at least two rhizomes together and repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix.

Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Place the rhizomes at least 1-2 inches down into the soil.

Set in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to form. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are establishing.

Outdoors: Carefully loosen the soil and dig the tubers up, avoiding damaging the rhizomes. Divide the rhizomes and plant in new locations in your garden. Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a part-shade morning sun location.

Best in medium light, but can survive in a range of low to high.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Doesn't prefer humidity, but they can tolerate it.

Keep on the warmer side to keep them growing healthy.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, to medium indirect light but can tolerate low light conditions.

Sansevierias don't need a lot of fertilizer so fertilize only twice a year in the early spring and mid-summer. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer.

When receiving the Snake plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. They like to be a bit root-bound. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a succulent soilless potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain.

Use a well-draining cacti and succulent potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add cacti and succulent soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the roots. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

Using a sharp knife, trim off any dead or damaged leaves from the area closest to the soil. If a leaf is damaged, cut off the browning or damaged part at any point on the leaf. Remove any dust with a damp cloth wiping gently up both sides of each leaf, supporting them with the other hand. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

Cut a leaf off at the base and place them in a container tall enough to hold the leaf upright. Add about an inch of water at the bottom and change the water weekly. Keep the leaf in medium indirect sunlight while they are beginning to form roots. Once roots are at least 1-2 inches long, plant them with rooting hormone mixed into the well-draining succulent and cacti mix. Water and place in bright to medium, indirect light. Use a wooden dowel to train them to stand upright until the roots are more anchored and secure.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Don't overwater. Too much water can cause root or crown rot.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Bromeliads grow best when temperatures are between 60°-80°F.

Outside: Grow in partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.

Indoors: The Bromeliad prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize monthly during their growing period while the flower is in bloom with a balanced liquid fertilizer and a time release granular soil fertilizer. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase. When fertilizing, don't get the fertilizer in the urn or tank as this can burn the plant.

To repot a bromeliad grown out of their container, get a larger one that's 2 inches wider with drainage holes. Make sure the container is sturdy enough if the bromeliad is top-heavy.

Use a mixture of 1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Fill the container's bottom with the mix, then place the bromeliad in and fill around the edges. Leave at least an inch of room from the top of the container to avoid water spillage.

Water the plant well. Add them to an area with bright, indirect sunlight and humidity to let them settle into their new environment.

Remove the dead or dying part with some pruners back to the base. This simple pruning will give more light to the remaining pups with more room to stretch and make new baby bromeliads.

To propagate the bromeliad pups, let the pups grow on the mother plant until they reach at least 5 inches or a third of the original stalk's size. Take the mother plant out of the pot. Cut the mother plant top off to see the pup and remove all the dead leaves. Pull away the pup and the small root system with them. You may need to use pruners to help remove the roots and pup. Some arm strength may be required to wedge them away from the parent plant. Once you have them separated, you can use a bromeliad medium (1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark) to repot them in. Use a container with drainage holes and nothing too big for the pup. Allow at least 2 inches of soil to surround the pup. You will bury the roots very shallow in the soil so as not to cause rotting on the leaves. Tamp the mix down to secure the plant. Water from overhead to give them a drink and water well so it drains through the hole. Set in a bright, indirect sunny area.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Enjoys being on the moist, but not soggy side.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

The Swiss Cheese Plant likes warmth and to stay above 50°F with high humidity.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 50°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, to medium indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize during their growing period in the spring and summer months between February and October every 2-3 weeks. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Reduce fertilizing during the fall and winter to once a month while the plant is in their dormant phase. Raise the humidity around them and never use chlorine or fluoride in the water.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Wear gloves while working with this plant, as they have a sap that causes skin irritation. Trim off any yellowing bottom leaves down to the base of the stem using a sharp knife. Remove any debris off the soil surface. Train your plant to grow up a moss pole and tie them up to promote upward growth. Wipe the leaves with a clean, damp cloth using filtered or rain water. Support the leaf by wiping them from the stem to the tip of the leaf on both sides. Spritzing the leaves is another way to wet them and wipe them clean.

Take cuttings just below an aerial root.

Remove the bottom leaves on the stem with sterile scissors or a knife. Place the cutting in a container tall enough to hold the leaf upright. Add about an inch of water at the bottom and change the water weekly.

Keep the leaf in medium indirect sunlight while they are beginning to form roots.

Once roots are at least 1-2 inches long, plant them with rooting hormone mixed into the well-draining potting mix.

Water and place in bright to medium, indirect light.

Bright, indirect light to filtered sun.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Enjoys moderate to high levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Money Tree likes the room temperature at 72°F. They handle warmth rather than cold so keep them away from cold drafts.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: The Money Tree prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize bimonthly during their growing period. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase and refrain from watering as much so they can rest.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Prune the leaves to stimulate new growth by cutting in front of a leaf node. Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep them healthy.

Stem Cutting: In early summer, take a stem cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine. Cut at least 4-6 inches of stem to propagate. Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours. After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it is time to plant. *Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix. Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around them. Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.