Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Don't overwater. Too much water can cause root or crown rot.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Bromeliads grow best when temperatures are between 60°-80°F.

Outside: Grow in partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.

Indoors: The Bromeliad prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize monthly during their growing period while the flower is in bloom with a balanced liquid fertilizer and a time release granular soil fertilizer. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase. When fertilizing, don't get the fertilizer in the urn or tank as this can burn the plant.

To repot a bromeliad grown out of their container, get a larger one that's 2 inches wider with drainage holes. Make sure the container is sturdy enough if the bromeliad is top-heavy.

Use a mixture of 1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Fill the container's bottom with the mix, then place the bromeliad in and fill around the edges. Leave at least an inch of room from the top of the container to avoid water spillage.

Water the plant well. Add them to an area with bright, indirect sunlight and humidity to let them settle into their new environment.

Remove the dead or dying part with some pruners back to the base. This simple pruning will give more light to the remaining pups with more room to stretch and make new baby bromeliads.

To propagate the bromeliad pups, let the pups grow on the mother plant until they reach at least 5 inches or a third of the original stalk's size. Take the mother plant out of the pot. Cut the mother plant top off to see the pup and remove all the dead leaves. Pull away the pup and the small root system with them. You may need to use pruners to help remove the roots and pup. Some arm strength may be required to wedge them away from the parent plant. Once you have them separated, you can use a bromeliad medium (1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark) to repot them in. Use a container with drainage holes and nothing too big for the pup. Allow at least 2 inches of soil to surround the pup. You will bury the roots very shallow in the soil so as not to cause rotting on the leaves. Tamp the mix down to secure the plant. Water from overhead to give them a drink and water well so it drains through the hole. Set in a bright, indirect sunny area.

Loves bright light so they can produce their colorful leaves.

Water when the soil begins to dry out, but do not oversaturate.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant in consistent temperatures. Avoid drafts, heat or air vent outlets and windows and doors. Avoid moving this plant around or they will protest and drop leaves.

Outside: Place Crotons in morning sun to develop their vivid colors. Midday sun can burn the leaves. Leave outside in container pots until night time temperatures dip to 60°F.

Inside: Set this plant in bright, indirect lighting.

Water the Croton Petra one day prior to fertilizing. Fertilize once a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer by half strength. A slow release granular fertilizer can be added to the top of the soil and as you water will release nutrients for the plant. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Gently wipe clean with a soft, damp cloth or paper towel. Work gently from the stem's base toward the leaf's tip, cleaning both sides at once. After cleaning the leaves, remove any dead leaves or debris on the surface of the soil.

Refresh the soil mixture if needed.

Prune away damaged or diseased leaves down to the stem base with sterile scissors. They can be pruned down to a manageable size if overgrown to create lushness. When pruning, only remove 1/3 of the stem height at a time.

In the spring or summer, prune 3-4 inch stem cuttings from the parent plant with three to four leaves on the stem.

Dip the ends in root hormone (mixed in water at a paste consistency) and place in damp, well-draining, moist potting soil mix and tamp down around the stem to secure.

Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Place the stem at least 1-2 inches down into the soil.

Mist inside a clear plastic bag to create moisture and humidity. Place the bag over the top of the plantings and let it set over the planter. There is no need to tie off the bag but allow a little airflow under and into the planting pot.

Set in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to form. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are establishing.

Another way is to directly take leaf cuttings from the stem and place the ends in an inch of filtered or bottled water. Replace the water weekly and observe the growth each week. Once you have several healthy roots, combine a little rooting hormone into the well-draining potting mix to help get established. Water the soil and use a clear plastic bag, misting it with water, and place it over each leaf to create high humidity. Each week, check the soil moisture and water if needed. After 6-8 weeks, the roots should be firmly in place, and a new baby Croton will continue to grow fresh sprouts!

This plant loves low to medium indirect light.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Pothos love high levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Pothos grows their best when temperatures are between 70°-90°F.

Outside: Grow in full sun (6-8 hours) to partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.

Indoors: The Golden Pothos prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize every two to three months during their growing period in the spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer or topical granular soil fertilizer. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball.

Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles: Shower them from above. Fill a watering-can with filtered, distilled, or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours and is free of chemicals (chlorine or fluoride). Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can. Trim off any yellow leaves with sterile scissors. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time. Prune the vines up to 2 inches from the soil line to create lushness at the top. As they spills over the rim of the container, trim to maintain their shape and size at your preference. Remove any dried or discolored leaves to keep the plant vigorous.

Stem Cutting: In early spring, take a pothos cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine. Cut at least 5-6 inches of stem to propagate. Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours.

After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. *Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix. Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around them. Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.

Division: Divide the Golden Pothos in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and cut through the roots with a sharp knife or pruners. Repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix. Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Place the roots at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom if necessary. Set them in bright, indirect sunlight and water. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to form. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are establishing.