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Do you need a wake-up call each morning? Then, look no further because happy little miss Yellow Calla Lily is at your service. She brings your morning bright and early with her yellow petals rolled up like a bugle singing your favorite camp song. Thank your lucky stars; she's so pretty and not the camp counselor in your dreams screaming to get out of bed! Post her right beside your bed table!
As the white flowers on this plant emerge, they symbolize the white flag to a ceasefire. If you need a little peace in your life or have recently suffered a loss, this one is the right choice. Legends have it that they represents peace and sympathy!
Care Level: I'm Easy
Pet Friendly: No
Toxic to pets if ingested.
Origins: The Calla Lily has origins Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland. The Peace Lily is native to tropical regions of the Americas and southeastern Asia
Fun Facts: The Calla lily is...
The Calla lily is the national flower for the tiny British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena located in the South Atlantic Ocean. Peace Lilies are known as a representative of peace. The white flower is the symbol of the white flag, which is understood internationally as a signal of ceasefire.
Best in medium light, but can survive in a range of low to high.
Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Prefers humidity. Spritz occasionally.
Keep this plant out of cold drafts near open windows or doors.
Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn.
Peace lilies are not heavy feeders therefore, every six weeks is sufficient for their nutrient needs. Add a balanced liquid fertilizer to your water and dilute it by half. Fertilize throughout the late winter, early spring and summer months. Note: If your peace lily is not blooming, move them to a brighter area in the house to get indirect sun.
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2"" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1"" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Each time a flower blooms on the peace lily and turns brown, cut the stem off at the base. Prune off any yellowing leaves at the base of the stem. Clean any debris off the soil's surface. To clean, place the plant into a tub or shower. Use a watering can with a shower attachment using distilled, filtered, or water without chlorine or chemicals. Pour the water over the plant to wash away any dust. Do this each quarter to keep your plant's leaves clean.
Propagate and divide your Peace Lily plant in the early spring.
Hydrate the plant the night before.
Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully around the roots. Carefully divide and repot in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil mix, being aware that each new plant needs at least two or more leaves with sufficient roots attached.
Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for their roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom.
Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.
Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.
In warmer climates (zoes 8-10), calla lilies grow well in partial shade (4-6 hours) to full sun (6-8 hours). In cooler climates (zones 3-7), they enjoy full sun.
Keep your Calla Lily consistently moist but not in soggy soil. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water that is sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough to discharge out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace it into the cache or decorative pot.
The Calla Lily enjoys and thrives in average humidity.
Comfortable room temperatures will help the Calla Lily to thrive.
Outside: Place in bright, indirect light if grown in a greenhouse and flowering so the leaves don't burn. Inside: Set in bright, indirect light.
Rhizomes planted in containers: Apply a liquid fertilizer especially formulated for flowering bulbs at half strength every two weeks in a container. Rhizomes planted in the garden: Add an organic fertilizer such as bone meal rich in phosphorus, calcium, and a trace of nitrogen. These nutrients will help the roots establish.
A soluble bulb fertilizer like 3-5-3 can also be apart of the soil amendments to give your bulbs a good start. As the foliage emerges, repeat the bulb fertilizer application each month until they start blooming. Stop when the Calla's start flowering to help extend the life of the bloom.
Cut the leaves back after the first frost when the foliage turns yellow. If you are in a cooler zone (3-7), remove the rhizomes from the soil with an inch of stem attached. Knock off all the soil and lay them on newspaper in a dry place for a week. Do not wet or wash the rhizomes. Sprinkle them with powdered sulfur to protect against fungi while they're in dormancy. Lay on a single layer screen or in a mesh bag so air can circulate around them. Store the rhizomes at 50°F-60°F.
When all chance of frost has passed in the spring, plant in the garden at a depth of 3 to 4 inches deep and 12 to 18 inches apart after the last frost in your planting zone. Place your rhizomes in a horizontal position, so the eyes are facing upward. Add compost or soil conditioners and mix in with the native soil.. Depending on the warmth of the soil, it usually takes 60 days to bloom.
If growing in a planter container, use a well-draining potting soil with perlite to aerate the soil. Add amendments to clay soils in the garden to aerate the soil and allow for good drainage.
Cut the leaves back after the first frost when the foliage turns yellow. Trim back faded flowers to the base of the stem.
Divide the rhizomes in the spring after the last frost in your planting zone. Plant each rhizome (type of root system) in a deep container at least 3-4 inches deep with soil underneath it for rooting. Set the growing tips facing upward. Cover with well-draining soil (add amendments to heavy soil in the garden). Wait until the plant is producing new green leaves before starting to fertilize. Stop fertilizing when buds form.
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