Care Level: I'm Easy
Pet Friendly: Yes
Turn any space into a paradise!
Get surprise, pet-friendly plant friends delivered to you and immediately create your new favorite green space. Get ready for your own personal urban jungle that you and your dogs or cats can enjoy with just one click.
*Plants ship in grower pots
Numbers of Plants Included In Each Pet-Friendly Jungle
Tiny Jungle - 2 Small & 2 Medium
Urban Jungle - 2 Small & 2 Medium & 2 Extra Large
The Amazon - 4 Small & 4 Medium & 2 Extra Large - MOST POPULAR!
I'm In The Jungle Book - 4 Small & 4 Medium & 4 Extra Large - BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK!
Care Level: I'm Easy
Pet Friendly: Yes
Indoors: Bright indirect light.
Keep your Heart fern consistently moist but not in soggy soil. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water that is sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough to discharge out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace them into the cache or decorative pot.
This heart fern enjoys and thrives in 70% humidity.
Warmer room temperatures and adding a humidifier to their surroundings will help them thrive.
This Heart Leaf fern thrives in bright indirect sunlight where temperatures are above 60°F and high humidity.
Apply a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants every month. Apply during the spring, summer, and fall seasons. Let them rest during the winter.
When receiving the Heart Fern, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.
Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Water well to dampen the soil and let them drain.
If the leaves on your fern dry out or become crispy, trim off the stems down to the base. Keep the base and roots moist and new fronds will form eventually. Place them on a pebble tray to keep the humidity high. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish if necessary.
Propagate and divide your Heart Fern in the spring.
Hydrate the plant the night before.
Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully around the roots. Carefully divide or cut through the clump with a sterilized knife. Repot the fern in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil Be aware that each new plant needs several leaves with sufficient roots attached.
Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for their roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom.
Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.
Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Place a large, clear plastic bag, spritz with water on the interior and place over the new plant to create a humid environment.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Remove the plastic bag but keep the air humid around them with a pebble tray and misting.
Prefers medium levels of indirect light.
Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.
Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.
Keep this plant in warmer temperatures and avoid drastic changes in temperature.
This plant likes warmer temperatures and can be acclimated to part shade to full sun over time. Bring in when temperatures dip below 35°F.
Add a time-release fertilizer to the top of the soil in the spring. This will be sufficient throughout the season. Do not fertilize in the fall and winter months.
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately. Wait at least 6-12 months, or until the roots begin to crowd and grow through the drainage holes.
This plant likes to be a little snug in its pot so there is no reason to repot initially. If the soil is aged, repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or use a palm soil mix.
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow water to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball.
Be aware that the roots are brittle, so carefully remove as much soil around the roots as possible to replace the aged soil and fertilizer deposits.
Very carefully lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Remove any dead fronds down to the base of the plant. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil when needed.
This plant is hard to propagate. We recommend getting a small plant to nurture!
Enjoys medium to bright indirect sunlight indoors or in full shade, frost-free outdoor areas.
Keep consistently moist but can be forgiving if neglected at times.
These plants enjoy high levels of humidity indoors and outside.
Keep this plant on the warmer side and avoid cold drafts.
Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F
Apply at half-strength a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants every month.
When receiving the Lemon Button Fern, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. They prefer to be a little crowded in their pot.
Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.
Add well-draining potting soil amended with peat moss and perlite to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, and unlike their cousins, they like to have a bit drier soil conditions. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.
When watering your fern, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. Cut the stem all the way back to the base. To revitalize them, cut all the old foliage down to the crown and avoid cutting off any rolled fiddleheads that are popping up. This will eventually produce new foliage for the year and keep your plant healthy.
Propagate and divide your Lemon Button Fern in the spring.
Hydrate the plant the night before.
Pull from the container and carefully divide or cut through the clump with a sterilized knife. Repot the fern in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil mix amended with a rooting hormone. Be aware that each new plant needs several leaves with sufficient roots attached.
Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for their roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom.
Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.
Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Place a large, clear plastic bag, spritz with water on the interior and place over the new plant to create a humid environment. This particular fern does better with dryer soil conditions. Water weekly and keep on a consistent schedule.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the humidity high while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Remove the plastic bag but keep the air humid around them with a pebble tray and misting.
Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.
Don't overwater. Too much water can cause root or crown rot.
Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.
Ideally, the Bromeliads grow best when temperatures are between 60°-80°F.
Outside: Grow in partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.
Indoors: The Bromeliad prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
Fertilize monthly during their growing period while the flower is in bloom with a balanced liquid fertilizer and a time release granular soil fertilizer. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase. When fertilizing, don't get the fertilizer in the urn or tank as this can burn the plant.
To repot a bromeliad grown out of their container, get a larger one that's 2 inches wider with drainage holes. Make sure the container is sturdy enough if the bromeliad is top-heavy.
Use a mixture of 1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Fill the container's bottom with the mix, then place the bromeliad in and fill around the edges. Leave at least an inch of room from the top of the container to avoid water spillage.
Water the plant well. Add them to an area with bright, indirect sunlight and humidity to let them settle into their new environment.
Remove the dead or dying part with some pruners back to the base. This simple pruning will give more light to the remaining pups with more room to stretch and make new baby bromeliads.
To propagate the bromeliad pups, let the pups grow on the mother plant until they reach at least 5 inches or a third of the original stalk's size. Take the mother plant out of the pot. Cut the mother plant top off to see the pup and remove all the dead leaves. Pull away the pup and the small root system with them. You may need to use pruners to help remove the roots and pup. Some arm strength may be required to wedge them away from the parent plant. Once you have them separated, you can use a bromeliad medium (1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark) to repot them in. Use a container with drainage holes and nothing too big for the pup. Allow at least 2 inches of soil to surround the pup. You will bury the roots very shallow in the soil so as not to cause rotting on the leaves. Tamp the mix down to secure the plant. Water from overhead to give them a drink and water well so it drains through the hole. Set in a bright, indirect sunny area.
Medium to bright indirect light.
Keep the soil moist consistently (but not soggy).
Spritz daily
This plant loves heat and humidity so the warmer the better. Keep away from heating vents or direct sunlight though as the leaves could burn.
Outdoors in part sun (4-6 hours), where nights are above 40°F.
Interior: Feed the Cat Palm monthly in the spring and summer months and reduce to once or twice during the fall and winter months. :: Exterior: Apply fertilizer around the drip line of the plant and follow manufacturer's directions for use. Apply in three times a year in the spring, summer and fall.
Repotting details
Cat Palms like to be rootbound, so don't repot until the roots grow out of the pot's holes. When the plant is rootbound and ready to repot (early spring before growth starts), plant in a 2" bigger container in diameter and slightly deeper than the existing planter.
Use an indoor container mix that is well-draining with good aeration. You may add peat moss to the soil to keep them light.
Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root clump.
Lift the plant and inspect the root clump. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Do not cover the current level of soil on the plant but add soil up to this level.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. Add more soil after watering if the soil settles.
After transplanting, the Cat Palm may experience some transplant shock after the process. Allow the palm to rest during this time in a partial shady area if outdoors or bright, indirect light when indoors.
Keep them well-watered and add humidity around them as they are getting established.
Outdoors:
Before planting or repotting in a container, water the plant in the grower pot well and let drain.
Find a spot in the garden where there are at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight each day.
Be generous by digging a hole twice the pot's width and 1 inch shorter than the grower pot to raise them above the soil level for good drainage.
Use a pitchfork or a sharp object to stab the soil walls to make several indentions for the roots to take hold.
Tickle the roots to loosen them if they wrap inside the container. Place the plant in the center of the hole. Fill the hole with water first, so the roots get another good drink.
Next, backfill with native soil mixed with compost by one third to one half (if the native soil is clay).
Add a rooting hormone fertilizer to this backfill mixture.
Tamp the soil firmly down around the edges and mound up. Avoid covering the original soil level of the plant that was in the container.
Add mulch as needed but not next to the stem or branches of the plant. Water and keep consistently moist but not soggy. Continue to observe the soil moisture each day, depending on the temperatures and soil drainage.
Keep yellowing or browning fronds cut off. If tips get burned, trim off the edges at an angle so they looks more natural. Keep the soil clean and replenish with soil if depleted.
Divide your palm by dividing the established plant. Remove the clump from the container after watering to help loosen the soil. Wash off the soil and gently brush away the soil from their roots. Identify where the stalks are attached to the roots. Take a sharp, sterilized garden knife and split the clump in half or thirds. Keep the knife disinfected as cuts are made throughout the root system to avoid spreading diseases.
You can also remove suckers that grow straight upward from the root ball. Loosen the soil away from the roots and separate the sucker from the mother plant. If needed, cut the roots away from the clump carefully. Follow our potting instructions to keep your new baby plant happy!
Medium to bright indirect light.
Keep the soil moist consistently (but not soggy).
Give this palm a spritz daily!
This plant loves heat and humidity so the warmer the better. Keep away from heating vents or direct sunlight though as the leaves could burn.
Outdoors in full sun, where nights are above 40°F.
Indoor: Feed monthly in the spring and summer months and reduce to once or twice during the fall and winter months. :: Outdoor: Apply fertilizer around the drip line of the plant and follow manufacturer's directions for use. Apply in three times a year in the spring, summer and fall.
Repotting detail
Use an indoor container mix that is well-draining with good aeration. You may add peat moss to the soil to keep them light.
Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root clump.
Lift the plant and inspect the root clump. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Do not cover the current level of soil on the plant but add soil up to this level.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. Add more soil after watering if the soil settles.
After transplanting, the Cat Palm may experience some transplant shock after the process. Allow the palm to rest during this time in a partial shady area if outdoors or bright, indirect light when indoors.
Keep them well-watered and add humidity around them as they are getting established.
Outdoors:
Before planting or repotting in a container, water the plant in the grower pot well and let drain.
Find a spot in the garden where there are at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight each day.
Be generous by digging a hole twice the pot's width and 1 inch shorter than the grower pot to raise them above the soil level for good drainage.
Use a pitchfork or a sharp object to stab the soil walls to make several indentions for the roots to take hold.
Tickle the roots to loosen them if they wrap inside the container. Place the plant in the center of the hole. Fill the hole with water first, so the roots get another good drink.
Next, backfill with native soil mixed with compost by one third to one half (if the native soil is clay).
Add a rooting hormone fertilizer to this backfill mixture.
Tamp the soil firmly down around the edges and mound up. Avoid covering the original soil level of the plant that was in the container.
Add mulch as needed but not next to the stem or branches of the plant. Water and keep consistently moist but not soggy. Continue to observe the soil moisture each day, depending on the temperatures and soil drainage.
Keep yellowing or browning fronds cut off. If tips get burned, trim off the edges at an angle so they looks more natural. Keep the soil clean and replenish with soil if depleted.
This coconut palm, if in it's ideal conditions and allowed to fully grow, will produce coconut seeds that can be planted.
Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.
Don't overwater. Too much water can cause root or crown rot.
Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.
Ideally, the Bromeliads grow best when temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Outside: Grow in partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.
Indoors: The Bromeliad prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
Fertilize monthly during their growing period while the flower is in bloom with a balanced liquid fertilizer and a time release granular soil fertilizer. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase. When fertilizing, don't get the fertilizer in the urn or tank as this can burn the plant.
To repot a bromeliad grown out of their container, get a larger one that's 2 inches wider with drainage holes. Make sure the container is sturdy enough if the bromeliad is top-heavy.
Use a mixture of 1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Fill the container's bottom with the mix, then place the bromeliad in and fill around the edges. Leave at least an inch of room from the top of the container to avoid water spillage.
Water the plant well. Add them to an area with bright, indirect sunlight and humidity to let them settle into their new environment.
Remove the dead or dying part with some pruners back to the base. This simple pruning will give more light to the remaining pups with more room to stretch and make new baby bromeliads.
To propagate the bromeliad pups, let the pups grow on the mother plant until they reach at least 5 inches or a third of the original stalk's size. Take the mother plant out of the pot. Cut the mother plant top off to see the pup and remove all the dead leaves. Pull away the pup and the small root system with them. You may need to use pruners to help remove the roots and pup. Some arm strength may be required to wedge them away from the parent plant. Once you have them separated, you can use a bromeliad medium (1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark) to repot them in. Use a container with drainage holes and nothing too big for the pup. Allow at least 2 inches of soil to surround the pup. You will bury the roots very shallow in the soil so as not to cause rotting on the leaves. Tamp the mix down to secure the plant. Water from overhead to give them a drink and water well so water drains through the hole. Set in a bright, indirect sunny area.
Set this plant in a place where they will receive bright, indirect light for favorable results.
Use unsoftened, filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace them into the cache or decorative pot. Replenish the water when the soil is dry or when your plant meter registers at 3-4.
Bromeliads need humidity at a rate of 40-60%. Use a pebble tray, humidifier and group plants together to raise the humidity levels.
This tropical plant loves warm climates and humidity.
In nature, this plant will grow attached to the side of a tree and the canopy of a tree from direct sun.
Fertilize monthly during their growing period while the flower is in bloom with a balanced liquid fertilizer and a time release granular soil fertilizer. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase. When fertilizing, don't get the fertilizer in the urn or tank as this can burn the plant.
To repot a bromeliad grown out of their container, get a larger one that's 2 inches wider with drainage holes. Make sure the container is sturdy enough if the bromeliad is top-heavy. Use a mixture of 1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Fill the container's bottom with the mix, then place the bromeliad in and fill around the edges. Leave at least an inch of room from the top of the container to avoid water spillage. Water the plant well. Add them to an area with bright, indirect sunlight and humidity to let them settle into their new environment.
When the flower fades and turns brown, remove the flower stalk as far down as you can cut with sharp clippers. Once pups or offshoots are one-third the size of the mother plant, they can be removed with their roots attached and planted. The mother plant will not produce any more flowers and eventually, die.
To propagate the bromeliad pups, let the pups grow on the mother plant until they reach at least 5 inches or a third of the original stalk's size. Take the mother plant out of the pot. Cut the mother plant top off to see the pup and remove all the dead leaves. Pull away the pup and the small root system with them. You may need to use pruners to help remove the roots and pup. Some arm strength may be required to wedge them away from the parent plant. Once you have them separated, you can use a bromeliad medium (1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark) to repot them in. Use a container with drainage holes and nothing too big for the pup. Allow at least 2 inches of soil to surround the pup. You will bury the roots very shallow in the soil so as not to cause rotting on the leaves. Tamp the mix down to secure the plant. Water from overhead to give them a drink and water well so it drains through the hole. Set them in a bright, indirect sunny area.
Bright indirect sunlight.
Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.
Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.
Keep this plant between temperatures of 68°F-78°F indoors with plenty of humidity. They can survive a temps in the 40's and 50's but not for long.
Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F
Apply a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants twice a year in the spring and summer.
When receiving the Boston Fern, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. They prefer to be a little crowded in their pot.
Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour.
Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Water well to dampen the soil and let it drain.
When watering your fern, it's an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. Cut the stem all the way back to the base. Avoid trimming the fern's top, if possible, except for the dead, damaged, or diseased parts. Instead, shape them up by cutting the side leaves from the base. Bravo! Now your fern looks like they just had a face-lift!
Propagate and divide your Boston Fern in the spring.
Hydrate the plant the night before.
Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully around the roots. Carefully divide or cut through the clump with a sterilized knife.
Repot the fern in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil mix amended with a rooting hormone. Be aware that each new plant needs several leaves with sufficient roots attached.
Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for its roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom.
Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.
Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Place a large, clear plastic bag, spritz with water on the interior and place over the new plant to create a humid environment.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Remove the plastic bag but keep the air humid around it with a pebble tray and misting.
This plant enjoys bright to medium indirect light.
Keep the soil slightly moist and water when the soil reaches a #5 on the moisture meter. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough to discharge out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace it into the cache or decorative pot. Don't let the roots sit in standing water. During winter months, water less frequently but keep it humid around the plant.
Add up to 60% humidity by adding a pebble tray filled with water, grouping with other plants or using a humidifier.
Avoid any sudden temperature changes. Keep humidity high in warmer temperatures.
Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F. Indoors: The Freddie Plant prefers bright to medium, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
Fertilize monthly during its growing period. Use a high nitrogen liquid fertilizer at half strength to increase foliage health. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in its dormant phase. Flush the soil periodically to eliminate salts from fertilizing.
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot in the spring, using a 2" wider pot. (Too large of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or an african violet potting mix. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil. Enclose the new plantings in plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as it acclimates to its new environment. It may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as it regains its energy and gets rooted into the soil over time.
Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.
Indoors: Propagate and divide Freddie Prayer plants in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully. Carefully divide and repot in a rich African violet mix. Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Set it in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Enclose the new plantings in clear plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as it acclimates to its new environment. It may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as it regains its energy and gets rooted into the soil over time. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. You can remove the clear plastic bag at this time but still maintain high humidity around the plant. Outdoors: Carefully loosen the soil and dig the roots up and separate the plant in new locations in your garden. Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a part-shade morning sun location. Water with filtered or rain water at soil level.
Best in medium to bright indirect light.
Water well when received, then allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Enjoys being on the moist side.
Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.
Keep in their ideal temperatures so that they will remain healthy.
Outside: Keep in filtered sun to full shade. Nightime temperatures need to remain above 50°F for healthy growth.
Apply a slow release fertilizer especially formulated for rose plants because these palms like the magnesium to prevent yellow spots on the fronds. Apply once during the spring, summer and fall season. If using a liquid fertilizer, use at half strength monthly throughout the growing season. Let rest during the winter.
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Use sterilized pruners and remove any dead, damaged, or diseased fronds off the plant. Wear gloves to remove the sharp spines at the leaflets' base on the fronds. Prune away fronds that are at the base of the plant. It is not unusual that the plant will shed their lower leaves from time to time. To clean debris and dust off the leaves:
Place the palm in a shower or tub.
Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.
Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.
Let the water drain and replace your palm in the decorative container.
Release the soil around the sucker with a garden fork. Carefully uncover and remove the sucker and associated roots. Do not disturb the mother plant.
Using a sharp knife to cut the sucker while keeping in tack the detached portions fibrous roots. Repair and add soil around the parent plant.
Reduce long, leafy shoots by removing about half of the stem and leaves.
Plant the sucker into a well-draining potting mix with perlite added.
Water well after securing the soil around the roots. Keep a consistent watering schedule for the first year.
Bright, indirect light to filtered sun.
Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Enjoys moderate to high levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.
Ideally, the Money Tree likes the room temperature at 72°F. They handle warmth rather than cold so keep them away from cold drafts.
Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.
Indoors: The Money Tree prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
Fertilize bimonthly during their growing period. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase and refrain from watering as much so they can rest.
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain.
Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Prune the leaves to stimulate new growth by cutting in front of a leaf node. Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep them healthy.
Stem Cutting: In early summer, take a stem cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine. Cut at least 4-6 inches of stem to propagate. Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours. After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it is time to plant. *Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix. Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around them. Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.
They are all so good. They traveled well. I love have plants in the house. I’m really amazed how good they look. Hope I can continue to meet their needs and keep them healthy.
Beautiful
Perfect plants to tie together the look of my room!
I am so happy with my plants. Thank you, so much
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